I awoke this morning after a somewhat restless night (thanks mainly to the plank that passes for a bed in this establishment) to find that the cloud had descend practically to my room - only the lower part of the hill outside my window was visible, the top shrouded, not in mist but thick grey stuff.
The cloud saved me any great decisions about my plans for the day - I would head south and see if migratory birds know what they are doing. But first breakfast - competing with a busload of pensioners who haven't been fed for a week (at least that was how it appeared) ensured I got the short end of a not very long stick and although I felt a bit cheated, the food I did have was not something to cause me regret for the lack of more.
Apparently birds do know what they are about, as I headed south the weather warmed and the cloud lifted until I could see real, blue sky in a south easterly direction.There was mile after mile of twisties, followed by many miles of great fast sweepers with virtually zero traffic. It is almost impossible to overstate just how great these roads are for a motorcyclist.
Initially I saw millions of olive trees, all in flower ( I pity the poor sod who suffers from a problem with olive pollen), these later disappeared and orchards of a fruit I think might have been apricot, became abundant. I stopped for refreshment by a spectacular lake/reservoir, the Embalse de Negratin where I encountered a couple of Spanish bikers. They spoke not a word of English but bikes must be a jolly good Babelfish because we seemed to understand each other very well. One of them had, only a few days before, returned from a mammoth trip to North Cape via the Baltic States Russia and Finland, returning via Scandinavia. I asked him how long his trip had taken - expecting an answer in weeks or even a month or two but he said it was done in 17 days. His phone was full of photos of his trip so he had at least stopped somewhere apart from petrol stations.
They were really nice guys and insisted on buying my drink and trying to persuade me to stop longer and ride with them for a while. I was tempted but they were headed north and so I regretfully said cheerio and continued for a little longer in a southerly direction. In a town called Baza, I weighed the benefits of making a bit of a dash for the coast or returning northwards by circumnavigating the natural park (The terms National Park and Natural Park are similar but not interchangeable - I am pretty sure they are different things - although the maps show them in a similar fashion and the posted signs and rules seem similar). The latter route won the toss, as I reckoned if it was to be a grey day on the morrow, I would go to the coast anyway and I do so enjoy these mountain roads.
The road I took northwards was an absolute delight - it was not edged in green on my Michelin map but if I had mapped it, it would have been double edged in green for interest and beauty. It afforded views over a wild and rugged landscape and as it climbed higher ( I passed 1800 metres at one point), the temperature dropped to 8 degrees and I could see snow in a number of gullies here and there on the hillside above me. I did not totally lose the sun until mid afternoon when it deserted me and I was again riding under complete cloud cover.
Arriving back at the hotel, I found a new receptionist - a nice lad called Alberto, himself an enthusiastic biker who was keen to show me on my map various routes I could take here and there. He did his best to persuade me to try a fantastic route off-road in the park but, as some of you know, I have ruled out that stuff these days. and as even some of the tarmac roads I have taken have been very lonely, it was not too difficult to thank him for the notion but also to say "No thanks".
A few more pics - courtesy iPad tethering
A few more pics - courtesy iPad tethering
Is that a little off road in one of the pics Chris? Sounds like a great day and your Spanish must be very good now if you can hold conversations with those that can't speak English. Well done.
ReplyDeleteDave,
DeleteI kept to the tarmac - straight up guv! It was as Paul says, a junction. My Spanish is technically worse than it was a couple of months back but I get less hung up about using simple sentences, instead of trying to translate the elegant prose that is in my head struggling to get out. The most difficult thing for me remains understanding what people say and in Andalusia the problem is compounded by the local form of Castellano. Word endings are often swallowed.
Upon seeing the photographs I had the same thought as Dave. You must have parked at a junction! Great ride report again Chris, thanks for keeping us informed... Looks like I may need to learn some Spanish.
ReplyDeletePaul, if I can learn some Spanish, anyone can!
DeleteHis Spanish is incredible. I know.
ReplyDeleteThe next time you´ll have to pass for Despeñaperros ( that in Spanish means the place where the dogs fall down ).I don´t want to seem you bad this words.
¡Ojala! Mercedes estás demasiado agradable
DeleteHey Chris. It's been a busy weekend and I haven't been on my PC for a couple of days. Enjoyed catching up with your adventures and you made me smile. Keep going and keep writing!
ReplyDeleteGlad you enjoyed it Jim. I'll try to keep posting, although as you may imagine, it is quite an effort after a long day on the bike and I am not promising anything!
Delete