Buscando el sol: Salamanca

Yesterday was a very short ride from Navarredonda to Salamanca, only 84 miles in length but an interesting journey nonetheless. I set off toward towards Béjar in the west, continuing along the “green edged” road I had arrived on. The day was warmer than Tuesday had been (when I went to Ávila) and although it had dawned cloudy, the cloud was lifting as I departed the Parador and a few miles along the road, sunshine and blue sky had appeared. To the north, the sky appeared even brighter and I was sufficiently encouraged to take one of the roads branching off in that direction. I didn’t bother consulting the map as I recalled that any of the roads heading in that direction would take me closer to Salamanca.

It was a lovely road with great views of various arroyos and small rivers, the hillsides covered in yellow broom. The road was narrow and twisty and climbed quite steeply until I started noticing tendrils of cloud drifting on the road. My Garmin said that I was at about 1700 metres which also explained why I had started to feel cold. Pretty soon I was in thick cloud and very glad of the white paint marking the edges of the road and red and white “snow poles” telling me the same thing. I was riding in second gear mainly, dropping into first for the bends as I was riding very slowly. By now it felt very cold, the temperature had fallen to 3 degrees and the Garmin said I was at 1920 metres. Not much further, I passed a sign marking the “Puerta de la Peña Negra” (Black Rock Pass) saying 1909 metres – the Garmin at that moment said 1929 metres (so there was fairly good agreement). I really hadn’t reckoned on this road was going over 6000 feet so I will make sure to have a good look at the map in future before unplanned sidetrips!

Once over the pass I had to drop quite a few hundred metres to clear the cloud but having done so (with slightly sweaty palms and a dry mouth..) the views were fantastic. I should have liked to have had my headcam working but there was nowhere on the steep road where I felt safe to stop and put it on. Lower down the mountain I passed through woods of some kind of oak, the trees set close together, very spindly and so covered in moss and lichen, that they appeared to have been wrapped in a kind of green bandage like mummies. Lower still I came across a goatherd tending his flock who returned my cheery wave but appeared a bit surprised at the sight of this odd bod on a bike.

Reaching the little town of Piedrahita, I just set the Garmin to take me to Salamanca, which it did along the autovia. However, Spanish autovias are such a pleasure to use compared with British motorways (being mostly traffic free – at least on the ones I have used thus far) and having interesting scenery to look at and admire, that I didn’t mind at all. I approached Salamanca through more oaks covering the little hills along the route – this time I think they were again holm oak as I couldn’t see any bark stripping which would have suggested cork oaks.

I had booked my hotel from Navarredonda on the basis of Tripadvisor ratings and was very pleased to find that the NH Puerta de la Catedral lives up to the high ratings given on Tripadvisor. The hotel couldn’t be more central, just 20 metres from the cathedral and having a secure underground car park, it is ideal for me.

This morning I hired a guide to show me around. I find it so much more interesting to have a good explanation of what I am seeing and although not the cheapest way of visiting a new place, when it is so packed with history as is Salamanca, I think the expense is worthwhile. I am not going to try and recite all that my guide Alicia told me but here are ust a few of the photos I took whilst walking around this morning, plus a couple from yesterday.