Pages

Saturday, 8 June 2013

Arroyo del Frio

I am in a small village called Arroyo Frio in El Parque de la Sierra de Cazorla. It is an area that forms part of the larger Sierra de Segura where peaks go up to 1800 metres or so. 


I left Valencia this Saturday morning in bright sunshine and at 08:30 or thereabouts, the temperature was a balmy 20 degrees.  At this relative early hour, the city was quiet and the streets almost deserted, it made for a very pleasurable and leisurely exit of the lovely city. A few miles later on the autovia and I had ascended a plateau at around 700 meters in altitude and the sky was covered in cloud. The temperature had dropped to 12 degrees and I stooped to add another layer of clothing. The temperature and altitude haven't changed much during the day and although there were brief sunny spells, it felt like a mistake leaving the coast. 


After a bout 40 minutes I left the autovia and changed to a lightly populated  N322 .  For many mies the road was arrow straight and  passed through obvious wine country with vines growing on the plain as nearly as far as the eye could see. Later, the vines gave way to olive trees and slowly, the topography became more interesting and there were a a few great sets of tightish but fast sweepers to enjoy.


I followed the N322 through Albacete and on to Puerto de Segura where I turned off into the park and then ambled south to Arroyo del Frio (well named for today!). The road, initially a bit rough with sign after sign apologising for its condition (they should see our roads in Kent!), became smooth as silk and the whole environment felt a little too manicured. There are lots of little camping resorts and umpteen casas rural catering for this tourist area - alongside places offering 4x4 excursions and canoe trips, guided walks, fishing etc.


I am staying at a hotel that claims to have four stars although I suspect it is like calling oneself "Prince", either that or the awarding body were well-oiled when they presented the stars. Still, it is clean, and the staff are friendly and as helpful as the facilities allow them to be.


Unfortunately the claimed wifi internet is neither wi nor fi and if this gets posted in the next 36 hours, it will be courtesy of my iPhone and the telephone network.


I have walked the town and stopped for a couple of beers in a bar where I practiced my Spanish with the very plasant owner who, each time I ordered a beer, made me a little dish of food. I have had caracoles (small, very tasty snails) and salmorejo - a delicious tomato puree with bread, oil, garlic and vinegar.We chatted about the economy and the fact that there seemed to be very few people in town, despite this being a popular tourist area. Depressingly the word "crisis" gets used a lot.

6 comments:

  1. Seems like an excessive and somewhat disappointing drop in temperature. I'm sure it should improve as you go south though. Glad the iphone is working for the updates even if the wi, fi and 4 stars aren't :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Totally off-topic but your granddaughter is now safely in Lima on the second stage of her own adventure. So far the weather warmer (on the whole) than yours! In Quito she particularly liked the Casa de la Cultura, full of prehistoric artefacts in clay and gold dating from about 10,000 BC to 1,000 AD. Next stop Cusco in a couple of days: the Camelbak is ready for trekking ...

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks Sarah. I am very proud of her! I hope to see lots of amazing photos and to hear some great tales when she returns. I hope her Camelbak is a big one, mine is getting plenty of use and I am not even walking!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Dave, I am here for another night and then I think I might become one of the expat Brits that infest the coast! I am practical in cloud this morning and wondering if a day's riding can take me somewhere a bit warmer...

    ReplyDelete
  5. Chris, I really love your saturday, especially the chatting with the owner of the pub. I always enjoy talking with the people who lives in the places I visited to. I prefer to tourism people than museums.

    I could read your daughter (please to meet you) and I have clearly understood that you are a adventurous family. :-)

    Take care and keep enjoying.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thanks Mercedes, I do enjoy museums in moderation, likewise the cathedrals and palaces but there is no doubt it is the people I meet along the way that remain in my memory. I stuck my nose in a couple of the churches and the cathedral in Valencia but it is the architecture and wondering about the people who built these incredible buildings that capture my imagination.

    No doubt a combination of passion and the power of the church account for much of what we see but I would love to be able to talk to the builders (the architects and the labourers) and find out what they were thinking.

    ReplyDelete